KILDARE BEER COLUMN: Why we should cherish our vanishing rural pubs

Last week, the Vintners Federation of Ireland (VFI) released a report from the Drinks Industry Group of Ireland (DIGI) that stated that 71 rural pubs closed their doors in 2018 and that there are 1,535 fewer pubs trading in rural areas since 2005. That’s 118 pubs that have closed every year over the past 14 years. 

There are currently 172 pubs in County Kildare, down from 191 back in 2005. 

These statistics will be no surprise to any observant person. Drive through any small town or village, and even some of the larger ones around the country, and you will see closed pubs — empty buildings waiting for new life or to be demolished. 

The VFI released these numbers in order to highlight the impact excise on alcohol has on these small- to medium-sized businesses in a hope for a reduction in excise in the coming budget. 

These statistics raised many questions, one of which is, do these towns and villages miss these businesses in their community, or is it just another small industry that is dying out due to changes in society? 

Year on year, it is stated by Fáilte Ireland and Tourism Ireland that tourists who visit Ireland expect the ‘Irish’ pub experience. Yet tourists are not necessarily visiting these little towns in rural Ireland, and even Fáilte Ireland admit that their Ireland’s Ancient East campaign, and their various projects focused on the midlands, have not been as attractive to tourists as the Wild Atlantic Way campaign. 

When looking at the reduction in the pub numbers in rural towns, the fact that the Irish government wants to reduce the alcohol consumption in Ireland cannot be ignored. 

The government is in a tricky situation. The drinks industry, via the consumer, is a large contributor to the revenue in the country. Ireland has the highest excise on wine in the EU, 25% higher, and out of a bottle of spirits €11.92, and 55 cent of the price of a pint of beer, goes directly back to the government in excise. 

The high excise rates might not be the only reason these rural businesses are struggling, but it definitely plays a role. 

Publicans and independent off-licence owners, when surveyed by the DIGI and NOFFLA (National Off-Licence Association), stated that if there was a reduction in excise, they would either take on another member of staff or increase the pay of staff already in employment. 

These changes, while they might not reduce the price of a pint in a pub, would provide a better style of living or more employment in communities. 

But back to the rural pubs and their impact on the wellbeing of a community. If we look at the history of pubs in rural areas, they have always been an important facility. Historically, publicans were highly-respected people in the community. Often, they were councillors and politicians, funeral directors and bank managers and the pubs they ran were places where you could be yourself, meet people from similar backgrounds, relax and be away from home or work. 

Essentially, they were  a ‘third space’ — not home, not work but a place where people could leave domestic and professional concerns at the door. 

They were, and still are, social spaces where the publican, in a way, looks after the people in the space and these pubs are active members of the community that they are a part of.

 From the DIGI figures, 68% of publicans say that their business sponsors a local team, charity or community group, while 63% say that their pub provides a space for elderly people living in isolation to socialise with others. 

These are important facilities to build communities and a sense of place in a town or village in rural Ireland. 

So even with the decrease of consumption of alcohol, these businesses still seem to hold an important place in rural Ireland. 

This column is usually about beer and brewing styles, but we feel it is essential to discuss the place where that beer is sold and consumed. 

So, with that in mind, if there is a business that you really enjoy visiting in your town or village, support it... because otherwise we risk losing these places, and having them replaced by a generic multinationals or — even worse — abandoned and left to rot and fall down.

Judith Boyle is a qualified chemist (MSc) and accredited beer sommelier. Susan Boyle is a playwright, artist and drinks consultant. See www.awinegoosechase.com.

Both sisters are proud to be fifth-generation publicans. Their family business is Boyle’s bar and off-licence in Kildare town.